Maytag Gas Dryer Won't Start

[elleken]

I have a Maytag gas dryer, model #MDG6200AWW. Problem I have is when I try and start the dryer, the finish cycle buzzer goes off. I have tried the timer knob in every position and I get the same result of the buzzer going off. Is this maybe a bad timer?
Thanks for any help or direction you can put me in.

[jeff1]

Hi,

Normally the motor is in the run position and when the timer shuts off the power to the motor it will coast from running to a stop.....as the motor coasts down the buzzer is activated until the motor stops....also the motor switches from a run mode to a start mode to get ready for the next cycle....kinda sounds like the motor is sticking in the run mode.
Make sure the motor is not jammed up with some lint or such.....if this doesn't help the motor will likely need to be replaced as the mechanical centrifigul mechanism inside the motor is jamming up.

479 Dryer drum drive motor Manufacturer Number W10410997 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2118675)

jeff.

[elleken]

Jeff,

Thank you for your response. Once I get to the motor and I vacuum/blow out the lint and dust, is there anyway to test the motor to make sure this is the problem?

Thanks

[thefixer]

Sounds like the timer to me. Timer motor contact not making connection. If motor switch was stuck in run position, this parallels the start switch so buzzer would sound without you having to press start switch.

[elleken]

I guess the question now is if there is a way to test the timer? I would just buy one and try it, but both these parts run about $100/piece.

Thanks

[thefixer]

Unplug dryer. Disconnect yellow and gray wires from timer. Place timer in run position. Check continuity between terminals where yellow and gray wires were. Should be zero ohms (dead short).

[jeff1]

Once I get to the motor and I vacuum/blow out the lint and dust, is there anyway to test the motor to make sure this is the problem?

Once you blow out the motor, just try the dryer normally to see what happens.
If sticking in the run mode I can sometimes ( power off ) move the centrifugal mechanism in the motor to the rest/off state.

jeff.

[thefixer]

Even if the motor switch was stuck in the run position, it cannot cause the buzzer to sound unless there is no hot side power to the motor due to a timer fault. Also, if motor switch was stuck in run position, the motor would start humming as soon as you moved timer knob away from off position if there was power to it via timer contacts as normal.

[thefixer]

elleken, this may be way over your head but I will give it a try. The first photo shows the current path when you first turn the timer on. Timer contact 1 and 4 close, applying hot side power to both sides of the buzzer. Buzzer will not operate this way, it must have hot on one side and neutral on the other to operate. Motor doesn't run until you complete the neutral path to the motor by pressing the start switch. This completes neutral path to both run and start winding of the motor. The motor starts, centrifugal switch closes so that when you release the start switch the path is still completed to run winding only through that centrifugal switch. Dryer runs, buzzer is silent. The second photo shows what happens when timer cycle ends and timer contact 1 opens (contact 4 stays closed). Hot side power is removed from motor but centrifugal switch is still closed completing neutral until motor stops rotating. This now applies neutral to the buzzer. Buzzers sounds until motor stops, opening centrifugal switch, cutting off neutral path. If timer is faulty in that contact 1 does not close when you turn timer on, when you press the start switch, you are applying neutral to the buzzer. If motor switch was stuck in run position, buzzer would sound as soon as you turned timer on without you having to press start switch. You may not get this at all, but others reading who have electrical/technical background will.

http://home.comcast.net/~fairbank56/DryerBuzzer1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~fairbank56/DryerBuzzer2.jpg

[jeff1]

if motor switch was stuck in run position, the motor would start humming as soon as you moved timer knob away from off position

Often hear a light hummmmm yes.


Even if the motor switch was stuck in the run position, it cannot cause the buzzer to sound unless there is no hot side power to the motor due to a timer fault.

Have seen this occur.
Can also happen when the start switch is welded closed.

jeff.

[thefixer]

It's the same switch. In one position it connects neutral to the start winding, in the other it connects neutral to the run winding. It is not possible for this switch, even if welded in one position or the other, to cause the buzzer to sound if the timer contacts are working correctly during a cycle. The only time the buzzer can sound is at end of cycle when timer contact 1 opens or during the cooldown part of perm press cycle when timer contact 4 switches and applies neutral to the buzzer to alert the user. If you think otherwise, please explain the theory.

[jeff1]

It's the same switch. In one position it connects neutral to the start winding, in the other it connects neutral to the run winding.

The start switch?
The motor switch?

jeff.

[thefixer]

There are two switches in the motor. One completes the neutral path to the gas valve and has nothing to do with motor operation. The other is the start/run switch. In one position it completes the neutral path to the start winding, in the other position, to the run winding (start winding is out of circuit when motor is running). I'm not really wanting to argue with you as to how the dryers electrical system operates. Just trying to help the OP fix his dryer. A faulty motor switch cannot cause buzzer operation when start button is pressed, plain and simple, unless there is no hot side power feed to the motor due to a faulty timer or wire connection/terminal. It could just be that the yellow wire jumper between timer BK terminal and YL terminal on the timer is faulty.

[elleken]

Fixer - Thanks for the extensive explanation and after reading a few times, it made sense. I did a continuity test on the timer terminals where the yellow wire was (marked as "yl") and gray wire (marked as "gy") and it measured as zero ohms. But just from the feel of the timer switch, it does not feel right or how it did some time ago. Is it a good guess just to replace?

[thefixer]

Well, I don't like to guess, I like to troubleshoot. Just measuring continuity is not always definitive because you are just using the low voltage/current of the multimeter to test. A contact can read good this way but can break down when trying to pass full motor current as it does when you press the start button. The only way to be sure is to check live line voltage. With all wires back in place, place timer in run position and check for 120vac from GY terminal to ground. While monitoring voltage, press start button. If voltage drops significantly, the contacts are bad. I don't think you ever said, but I assume when you press the start button and the buzzer sounds, the motor does not try to start? Also check that yellow jumper wire. Make sure there is no break in the wire and the terminal crimp connections are good. If you determine that it is in fact the timer, if you purchase it from repairclinic, you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Timer/33001632/516531

[jeff1]

Well, it did....what I tried was taking a working dryer and jammed the motor switch in the run mode....motor made a slight hummm and the buzzer went off without pushing the start switch...but what I didn't realize it would happen just by turning the timer on, didn't need to push the start switch.
I hope it is just the timer as that is much easier to replace....but the buzzer will go off with a bad/jammed motor switch.

jeff.

[thefixer]

What model dryer? The reason it buzzed right away without pressing start button is because a stuck motor switch parallels the start button (depending on model number of course). Did you place the timer fully into the cycle? Not near the OFF position? Buzzes no matter where you put timer?

[thefixer]

....but the buzzer will go off with a bad/jammed motor switch.

I wouldn't say that it will go off, but it may under certain conditions. With your test, because the motor won't start, there is a very high current through the motor and timer motor contacts. High current through dirty/pitted contacts will produce a voltage drop. I just tested my Maytag dryer buzzer on a variac and it will sound with voltage down as low as 40 volts. This means that if the voltage on the load side of the timer motor contact is 80 volts, the buzzer can sound. (120vac on one side of buzzer, 80vac on the other = 40vac across buzzer). This is why I suggested to the OP to check the voltage on load side of timer motor contact when pressing start button. This will tell you if you have bad contacts but he may also have a faulty motor switch or motor. (motor won't start). This is all very easy to determine but not easy to explain to a layman DIY'er with no electrical troubleshooting experience. I would simply jump out the timer motor contact to see if motor starts and go from there, although the OP has never said if the dryer motor runs or not, he's only said that the buzzer sounds when he "tries" to start it.

[jeff1]

MDG6200AEQ
No matter where the timer was set...except off.
Motor is acting more like a piece of wire since it is not running.

jeff.

[thefixer]

Quickly check the voltage to ground on each terminal of the buzzer when you turn the timer on. What is voltage on pink wire? and gray wire?

[thefixer]

So, I tried this with my own dryer this morning, Maytag DE-512. Same wiring as MDG6200 as far as motor, timer, buzzer operation. I blocked the centrifugal switch mechanism into run position, placed two voltmeters clipped leaded to each side of buzzer and ground to monitor voltage and turned timer on briefly (not good for motor to have locked rotor current through it). Motor hummed, minor voltage drop across timer motor contact due to high motor current, buzzer did not sound. Buzzer must have at least 40 volts across it to operate. This can only happen with timer on in normal run position if timer motor contact is faulty causing major voltage drop or there is resistance in wiring/connections somewhere else in this circuit causing voltage drop. During normal operation, buzzer has a short across it due to timer contacts. At end of cycle, timer motor contact opens, removing short across buzzer and buzzer sounds until neutral is removed by motor centrifugal switch opening as motor stops spinning.

[jeff1]

Should get to try the voltage check on monday or tuesday ( got calls on monday ).

jeff.

[jeff1]

Our son sold the gas dryer so had to try an electric one today. DE7500
Showed 59 volts on one side and nothing on the other side to ground. Buzzer sounded, but probably not fully.
Something that I didn't think about is our commercial power in the shop is slightly different to a house power feed. Comes in 3 phase, 120 volt stuff is more like 110 volts AC and the normal 220-240 volt stuff is more like 200-205 volts ( have even seen it 195-199 volts ), many times range elements don't glow red when we test an electric range.

jeff.