Kenmore 44092 front load not spin rinsing

[Justus]

I have a kenmore 44092 front load. It goes thru the full cycle until the final spin. At that point it does the final toss and buzzes, no error code. The cloths are sopping wet. There is no water left in tub. I took bottom front panel off. Behind that is a black boot which connects to the tub drain and the evacuation pump and something else at the top right which has a small black rubber hose that goes up the side of the tub. Not sure what that's for. Anyways, I disconnected the black boot from the 3 connections and inspected it. It had a small amount of water in it as I would have expected since the evacuation motor connection is about an inch from the bottom of the boot. It had some gumming muck in it but not clogged. I cleaned it real good and replaced. Ran another load and went thru entire cycle but again no final spin. I then turned the cycle knob to rinse and spin and restarted. When it gets to the same point about 9 minutes before cycle end with the drain motor just humming, I pushed on the boot causing some water to go thru the motor, it then made a more drowning sound and started the spin cycle and finished properly. The only 2 things I can figure that are wrong is if there's a sensor in the evacuation motor that's bad not telling the computer it's finished draining, or the logic board is bad. Any imput on this would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Justus

[jeff1]

Hi,


kenmore 44092

Missing some digits....Kenmore model#'s are more like 123.45678910
http://www.applianceaid.com/model-number.php Some model# helps.


and something else at the top right which has a small black rubber hose that goes up the side of the tub

Probably the water level control ( pressure switch ) hose.

jeff.

[Justus]

417.44092500 got this off inside of door, other was from manual.

[jeff1]

Only reliable place is on the appliance itself.


417.44092500

A Frigidaire built Kenmore.


I pushed on the boot causing some water to go thru the motor, it then made a more drowning sound and started the spin cycle and finished properly. The only 2 things I can figure that are wrong is if there's a sensor in the evacuation motor that's bad not telling the computer it's finished draining, or the logic board is bad.

No sensor there. Could have moved some water up the WLC hose and tripped the water level control. It should move from full to empty once the water has drained out so the washer can spin. Something caught ( gookus ) in the hose, air done ( plastic piece above the pump ), bad WLC ( pressure switch ).
Manual is linked here (http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals/5995413084_Washer_2004.pdf)...yours should be the "better" style.
Page 49 talks about the WLC/pressure switch.

490 Water level pressure switch Manufacturer Number 134762000 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1258528)

jeff.

[Justus]

Jeff. I ordered the part you suggested. Took the top off washer and replaced it. Still doing same thing. I took the part back out and pulled the small hose off it and blew air thru it. I then took a syringe with a catheter tip and securely attached to hose and thrusted water thru it. I again blew thru hose. It appears to be clear. Water draining but no spin cycle and no error codes. I also took the wire connector off the new part and attached it to the old part. Ran a spin cycle and after 2 minutes blew and drew back on the hose connector of the old part thinking I could simulate the normal response. I could hear a small popping noise in sensor, but did not trigger spin cycle. What do you suggest now?
Thanks,
Justus

[Justus]

I just tried the diagnostic test holding the pause/cancel and options buttons. Went 8 clicks clockwise and washer started to spin. I would have to assume the problem is the motor control board...

[jeff1]

I just tried the diagnostic test holding the pause/cancel and options buttons

No fault codes displayed?

Turn the program knob (9) clicks from the start
position. The control will signal the last error code

jeff.

[Justus]

Error code E47

[Justus]

I have not seen any error codes since it stopped spinning. It just bypasses spin and tosses. There's been no spin during wash, just agitate

[jeff1]

E47
Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
Refer to test (9)

Test 9:
1. Remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC.
Shorted or open. Replace door lock assembly.
Reads around 1500 Ohms. Replace control board.

509

510 Door lock and switch assembly. Manufacturer Number 131763202 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1531974)

511 Control-electrical Manufacturer Number 137006020 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1469013)

Looks like the WLC can go back for a refund.

jeff.

[Justus]

Jeff, just a question. I have yet to receive a display on the led of an error when running a load. Even if it doesn't display an error, is it still recorded in memory. Reason I say that is because 6 months ago I didn't get the door completely shut and it displayed error. Just want to make sure this is the correct error code for this incident.
Thanks,
Justus

[Justus]

Just a little confused on which contacts to check with ohm meter?

[Justus]

My door latch

512

[Justus]

Ok, I touch the 2 connectors on the wax motor and got a reading of 1.586 ohms with the meter set at 2k ohms

[Justus]

Ohm reading

513

[jeff1]

Even if it doesn't display an error, is it still recorded in memory.

Suppose to store the last fault yes.


Just a little confused on which contacts to check with ohm meter?

The PTC is the wax motor on the door lock assembly.
Your last pic is correct. Another thing you can also try is to apply 120 volts with a test cord to the wax motor, it should extend out fully in approx 45 seconds.

jeff.

[Justus]

Ok Jeff, what now. The board is bad? Could it be anything else?

[jeff1]

Another thing you can also try is to apply 120 volts with a test cord to the wax motor, it should extend out fully in approx 45 seconds.

Did it extend out in that time?
Lately we have seen a lot of bad door switches.

jeff.

[Justus]

Jeff, hooked 110 from direct outlet to wax motor via a chopped extension cord with 2 alligator clips. The wax motor piston started slowly to extend, but after 2 1/2 minutes still barely did not make the contacts touch. It got very hot and electrical burn smell. Hope I did it right...

Justus

[jeff1]

Hope I did it right...

You did it right....sounds bad....before going any further or into the board I'd change out that door lock assembly and retest.

jeff.

[Justus]

Will do. Appreciate your help Jeff. Will order part and report back after install and testing.

Justus

[jeff1]

Please do let us know :)

jeff.

[Justus]

Washer fixed! 69 bucks! Thanks for your hand up Jeff. Couldn't let it beat me. Kudos to you, this blog and Repair Clinic.

Justus

[jeff1]

Thankx for the update :)

jeff.