jeff1
12-22-2013, 02:29 PM
Appliance tip of the week...
Leaking problems:
Many leaks come from the pump (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3296) itself. Fill hoses and fill valves (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=868761)also are bad for leaks. The outer tanks are fairly bad for rusting and creating leaks on this style of an washer. It is a good idea to do a visual check of all hoses, look for cracks, rub marks, leaky or rusty hose clamps. A fairly quick way to narrow down where to look for a leak, place a sheet of cardboard under the washer ( it should be almost as big as the washer ) and run a short cycle. When the washer is finished, look for the wet spot on the cardboard, this will help point you in what direction to look for where the leak is coming from...front...back...right side...left side. If you find the leak to be a bad pump, replace the pump. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/leakdrainhose.JPG) and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
Pump service:
In order to service the pump, remove the cabinet (http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-drive-washer-access-procedures.php#remove). The pump is located on the end of the motor shaft. Remove the 2 thumb clips holding the pump to the motor, pry off clips with a flat screwdriver. Picture (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-pump.jpg) Place a container under pump to catch water and remove the clamps from hoses. The drain pump normally will pull off of the motor shaft, pull straight out on the pump towards you. The pump sometimes will become "frozen" to the motor shaft as the motor shaft can rust (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/ddpumpleaking_small.jpg). You may have to break the old pump off the motor shaft if it has frozen itself onto the shaft, a large straight screw driver and a hammer can do this. I usually split the pump open using the flat screwdriver, use caution when hitting the screwdriver with the hammer so you do not drive the screwdriver through the pump and damage the motor. If the motor shaft is rusted, you should sand and clean up the shaft before installing the new pump. Change hoses to the new pump. Line the shaft of the motor up with the impeller slot on the pump, and push the new pump on the motor shaft. Replace thumb clamps and Replace the cabinet (http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-drive-washer-access-procedures.php#replace). Check your repair.
Line up the slots on the motor shaft and center of the pump. Picture (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/pumpoff.jpg).
524 Drain pump for belt-less direct-drive washer, one large port, one small port (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3296)
525 Washing machine water inlet valve kit, with bracket (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=868761)
jeff.
Leaking problems:
Many leaks come from the pump (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3296) itself. Fill hoses and fill valves (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=868761)also are bad for leaks. The outer tanks are fairly bad for rusting and creating leaks on this style of an washer. It is a good idea to do a visual check of all hoses, look for cracks, rub marks, leaky or rusty hose clamps. A fairly quick way to narrow down where to look for a leak, place a sheet of cardboard under the washer ( it should be almost as big as the washer ) and run a short cycle. When the washer is finished, look for the wet spot on the cardboard, this will help point you in what direction to look for where the leak is coming from...front...back...right side...left side. If you find the leak to be a bad pump, replace the pump. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/leakdrainhose.JPG) and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.
Pump service:
In order to service the pump, remove the cabinet (http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-drive-washer-access-procedures.php#remove). The pump is located on the end of the motor shaft. Remove the 2 thumb clips holding the pump to the motor, pry off clips with a flat screwdriver. Picture (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/lwawp-pump.jpg) Place a container under pump to catch water and remove the clamps from hoses. The drain pump normally will pull off of the motor shaft, pull straight out on the pump towards you. The pump sometimes will become "frozen" to the motor shaft as the motor shaft can rust (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/ddpumpleaking_small.jpg). You may have to break the old pump off the motor shaft if it has frozen itself onto the shaft, a large straight screw driver and a hammer can do this. I usually split the pump open using the flat screwdriver, use caution when hitting the screwdriver with the hammer so you do not drive the screwdriver through the pump and damage the motor. If the motor shaft is rusted, you should sand and clean up the shaft before installing the new pump. Change hoses to the new pump. Line the shaft of the motor up with the impeller slot on the pump, and push the new pump on the motor shaft. Replace thumb clamps and Replace the cabinet (http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-drive-washer-access-procedures.php#replace). Check your repair.
Line up the slots on the motor shaft and center of the pump. Picture (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/pumpoff.jpg).
524 Drain pump for belt-less direct-drive washer, one large port, one small port (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=3296)
525 Washing machine water inlet valve kit, with bracket (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=868761)
jeff.