Buzzing sound in fridge

[Boman]

Model - 363.9520880

Appears to be a GE built Kenmore dblwide freezer/refrigerator.

The complaint was a buzzing sound from the compressor. Plugged it up, and it did sound like a buzzing sound coming from the compressor.
I got it home and unloading it, I let it hit pretty hard coming off my trailer. Plugged it up outside still had the buzz but not quite as bad. I would unplug it and the buzz would continue just a little and sound liker it was coming from just above the compressor. Made me wonder if the sound was traveling and not coming from the compressor after all. It also had an almost rotary sound, kind of pulsating til it stopped.

I cleaned under it, the condenser fan, coils, etc. I called myself tightening the evaporator fan mounting bracket thinking it might be loose and causing the buzzing sound.

I thought let it run a few and see if the sound goes away. It did. Compressor runs cool and quiet.
I set pocket thermometers in each side. It was a little early, but one ff would show 20, freezer would show 0. I left a bottle of water in the ff section today before going out of town. Came back, it still showed 20, but the water was not frozen. Kind of confirms what I have been thinking for a while that my thermometers were faulty. I did switch the thermometers from one side to the other. When I went back to check in a little while, the ff has risen a couple of degrees, but the compressor had also come back on. I did not think to check the freezer at that time.

I think maybe the ff would read the same when the compressor kicks off if I had not adjusted the settings just a little.

Seems odd the if both thermometers read the same in each compartment, until I realize I calibrated one with the other. Heheh, I may have used the wrong to set them by.

My thoughts are maybe the hard bump unloading jarred a compressor spring and corrected something. Maybe the cleaning made a difference as in making a fan more in balance, or I did tighten the evaporator fan motor bracket.

I should add I also removed the icemaker.

Who knows the plastic control cover might have been vibrating as it just kinda lies on a couple horizontal posts.

Enough rambling. I do have a question. When you unplug, the compressor should stop immediately, right? No coasting to a stop, right? Whereas a fan might coast a little, right?

[jeff1]

When you unplug, the compressor should stop immediately, right?

Yes.


No coasting to a stop, right?

Nope.


Whereas a fan might coast a little, right?

Yes.

New thermometers time!

Pocket thermometer, -40? to 160? F (http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=196151&b=71869&m=11664&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Ea%2D1appliance%2Ecom%2Fproduct%2FT16 0%2DUEIT160)
638

jeff.

[Boman]

I think the compressor is out of the running for being the culprit. I may put the icemaker back in tomorrow just to see if it had anything to do with the odd sound.

[jeff1]

If the fill valve is not hooked up to a water line and the icemaker is turned on, the fill valve will buzzzzzz for 6-9 seconds everytime the icemaker calls for water.

jeff.

[Boman]

Interesting. I might or might not have differentiated the inlet valve sound and some other sound.

I noticed a few minutes ago a very slight buzz or rattle somewhere in the back of the fridge. I also noticed the drain tube has a metal cover over it. This will be the next thing I check out for anything that might be loose.

[Boman]

New thermometers time!

Brought both in and set them on my digital house thermostat. Then set them to match it.
I also put a bottle of water with a hole in the top in the ff section with one of the thermometers in it. I put the other one in the freezer. Last time I checked both were pretty much on the money. Well within range.

Not sure that faint rattle is something to be too concerned about, but I will try to find the source.

[jeff1]

Not sure that faint rattle is something to be too concerned about, but I will try to find the source.

Could be an age thing.....I have some faint rattles now that I didn't have 20 years ago ;)

jeff.

[Boman]

You and me both!

I thought this thing was running too much, especially with the dial set so low. I had it set a little past 2, and it was still running at near 40 degrees and a little below. It did not want to cut off until I turned the dial to off.

I removed the control. I will put it in the fridge in the house to attempt to see at what temp it might open. Did the same in the Fall with very little luck.

[jeff1]

Just has 1 dial or two?

jeff.

[Boman]

Has the dial for the thermostat/temp control numbered from 1 to 9. It also has the wheel for adjusting the air flow from the freezer section.

I put the control in my fridge that hovers around 33-40 or close to it. This according to the new fridge thermometer I placed in it. The control was on like 2, and still did not want to open.

Now at one point while the control was still in the fridge, it had opened at a higher number I think. I do not know how long it had ran at that time as I was in and out of the shop. Right before I removed it to try and test it, it seemed the fridge was running constantly while I was out there working.

Explain something to me. If the temp is say 38 degrees, does it matter if the entrance point of the cold air is a narrow opening or a wide opening? I am thinking of the air flap on the freezer control. I mean if the temp control/thermostat has a reading of 1 to 9, and it is set on like 2.5, shouldn't it open before the temp got to 40 or below? Normally, what? 5 is recommended for normal usage?

In my mind, it shouldn't matter if the freezer adjustment was working or not as long as it is closed off and temp got low enough to open the cold control.

[jeff1]

Most GE's are like 5 and C is a normal setting.

Most controls ( even if they are in the fresh food section ) acually are sensing the freezer temp air as it is being blown over and do not sense the fresh food temp.

jeff.

[Boman]

Hmm, wouldn't that mean the freezer would stay around 36 to 40? Or the ff would stay somewhere between 0 and 10?

That is confusing....to some! :confused: :D

[jeff1]

wouldn't that mean the freezer would stay around 36 to 40? Or the ff would stay somewhere between 0 and 10?

Nope.
If the control is set to a mid way point and is designed to shut off at 0?F....once the air coming out of the freezer duct is 0?F the control will open giving an 0?F temp in the freezer...but working with the air damper, only a small amount of air is being blown from the freezer to the fresh food section, this will give a much higher temp. Example only: 75% of the air is kept in the freezer where the cold is made and 25% is blown over to the fresh food section. There are others things involved, but these are the basics.

jeff.

[Boman]

Okay. I have had this thermostat in my fridge for a few days now. This reply reminded me it was still in there. I decided to check it. It is set on or around 2, the temp is about 33, and it still is not open. Doesn't this indicate the control is faulty?

Btw, the new fridge thermometer was on the shelf right beside it.

[jeff1]

It is set on or around 2, the temp is about 33, and it still is not open. Doesn't this indicate the control is faulty?

Put the control in the freezer and test.

jeff.

[Boman]

I set in the freezer with the dial still around '2'. I waited a few minutes and check it. It did open. I had it on the counter when it closed with a very audible click. Is this normal?

I set the dial to '5' and I have back in the freezer now.

I noticed one end of the metal housing it is in looks as if it has been bent inward toward the timer. I wonder if this is messing with the airflow or if it is supposed to be shaped like that.

The diagram on Sears' site does not show this end of this housing. Not sure what it is called. The thermostat and timer is in it. Looks like 436 in the diagram listed as a bracket.
The timer end is curved back over the timer a little. May be a case of someone trying to get in it to work on it. This curve does not look bent evenly all the way across. This what makes think it is not normal and may be affecting airflow and the temp control/stat.

I'm thinking the air should flow over and out at the thermostat through the openings right below the stat. This looks like some of the air would go out the far end of this housing/bracket into the ff section.

[jeff1]

I set in the freezer with the dial still around '2'. I waited a few minutes and check it. It did open. I had it on the counter when it closed with a very audible click. Is this normal?

Yes.


I set the dial to '5' and I have back in the freezer now.

Keep us posted.


I noticed one end of the metal housing it is in looks as if it has been bent inward toward the timer.

Bend it back....

647

jeff.

[Boman]

The thermostat did open in the freezer with the dial set at 5. I did not pay attention to how long it took to for it to open.
Took it about 3 minutes for it to close again at room temp.

I'm thinking the bent piece may have been causing a problem.

I've said before, but I seem to come across some strange problems. :( :D

[jeff1]

The thermostat did open in the freezer with the dial set at 5

Sounds good to me.


I'm thinking the bent piece may have been causing a problem.

Certainly won't help!

jeff.

[Boman]

Sounds good to me.

I guess my thick skull just can't understand why a thermostat that I need to open at around 36 to 40 needs a temp of near zero to open. Well, I actually don't know at what temp it opened. I guess I should say how long it was exposed to the freezing temp of the freezer.

You know when I think of the part in your picture and the way the end was bent on this one and the surrounding area of the ff compartment, I may be getting an inkling of how it works.

Anyway, we should know in a day or two if the bent part was the problem. May have to wait until we have a few days in a row of proper ambient temp.

Thanks for your patience.

[jeff1]

I guess my thick skull just can't understand why a thermostat that I need to open at around 36 to 40 needs a temp of near zero to open

See how it is freezer temp air coming out towards the temp control....

648

jeff.

[Boman]

Have a pretty good understanding about airflow. The best I can understand the thermostat needing freezing air to open thereby cooling the ff section at a higher temp, is like an ice cube inside a shoe box. The area of the ice cube is very cold, but as the effect of the cold ice cube spreads in the area of the shoe box, it leaves the total area cool and not nearly as cold as the ice cube (incoming cold air).

The freezer setting determines how big an ice cube is placed in the box.

The dial setting on the temp control determines how long the ice cube is left in the box.

Hey, almost makes sense to me!

[jeff1]

Hey, almost makes sense to me!

Clear as mud ;) :D

jeff.