Frigidaire lock and lid switch

[Boman]

Model - LTF530FS0

How do you bypass this lid switch? Or test it? I was going to bypass it. Someone had looked like someone had already cut the bottom two wires on the switch and spliced them back together. I figured maybe they had tried the wrong ones, so I cut the top two (black and white) and bypassed the switch with a jumper. Threw a spark when power was applied. Now I think that was the lock/locklight switch, and the connector does not want to fit in the switch because the contacton the wire end was burned.


May have blown something more serious than a lid lock/switch.

Anyway, trying to learn these things and would appreciate any help.

Before I tried to bypass the switch, the machine would fill with water. Not sure it was after I did this. It was getting very late. It also would pump the water out. I ha removed the pump to look for any obstructions.

From reading some the tips that camew ith the washer, it seems the door mechanism may affect the water valves.
? Goona have to get the burned lead back in somehow. I think

[jeff1]

How do you bypass this lid switch? Or test it? I was going to bypass it.

Can't really bypass it....has more than one switch/function.

811

812 LINK> Door lock and switch assembly (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1531974)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=prkM2XMoOJk

jeff.

[Boman]

Thanks Jeff.

The top tow wire connector is the one I crossed out that popped and arced when the power was applied. I had to pull one end of the jumper out with needle nosed pliers. I will still have to work on it because all of the jumper did not come out. It was a pretty bad direct short I guess.
How would I check to see if something else was ruined because of this before I invest in the lock/lid switch?

This is assuming it is the switch assembly that is not letting it spin. I was told it would agitate but not spin. I guess it could be the motor?

[jeff1]

How would I check to see if something else was ruined because of this before I invest in the lock/lid switch?


Find a used switch maybe...definetly have to have the switch and lock working to test the washer correctly.


This is assuming it is the switch assembly that is not letting it spin

That is very possible!
Lock, motor control board, timer, motor are common trouble makers for not spinning.....unless it is noisy, then bearings and seals.

jeff.

[Boman]

This thing will not agitate or spin. It will let water in and pump it out. That is all it will do.
Can the wax motor on the bottom be bought seperate?

If the guy told the truth about it agitating but not spinning, something has happened in addition to what was wrong when he had it.

I don't know who had tried to bypass the switch before me but someone had and wire nutted the leads back together.

Suggested way to proceed?

Thanks.

[jeff1]

Can the wax motor on the bottom be bought seperate?

Yes and no....not for that lock specifically....but other wax motors do fit....but that part is for spin only.

822 Wax motor (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1063620)


Suggested way to proceed?

Check motor control board for anything burnt.
Also see tech sheet...
http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/Frigidaire-Washer-LTF530FS1-Tech-Data-Sheet-134576200.pdf

jeff.

[Boman]

No way of testing the wax motor? Will that one work on this machine?

I will definitely check the board for any obvious burnt places.
Thanks for that and the tech sheet. I'll see if I get it a little bigger on the desktop computer, if I can't edit it on this laptop, so I can see it a little better.

Btw, the arcing I mentioned blew a fuse in the old fuse box. I could nott ell any difference in the operation of the washer.

[jeff1]

No way of testing the wax motor?

You can ohm it.
Put power to it, the plunger should move approx 1/4".


Will that one work on this machine?

The wax motor?...yes.

jeff.

[Boman]

Thanks. I will let you know how it checks

[jeff1]

Ohming needs to be 1500 ohms +/- 5%

jeff.

[Boman]

Well, I can't let you know about the wax motor. I couldn't figure how to get it separated from the lock/lid switch assembly.
But, I did find a hot spot on the control board. It was on one end of a black nickle sized...something with the number 410 ( I think) and some other numbers on it. It was not a diode because it would read both ways. It would read from side to side but not on the circuit it was serving. One side had gotten hot and became loose from the circuit/grid, whatever it is called. I put an ugly solder joint on it. Now it does everything it is supposed to do.

What would have caused this? Too big of a load? Off balanced?

Oh, I also redid the nutted and taped splices on the lid switch leads. I put in line splices on them and added some silicone to seal them.

[jeff1]

What would have caused this? Too big of a load? Off balanced?

Power surge, low voltage ( like an extension cord ), just use, cold solder joint.....

jeff.

[Boman]

just use, cold solder joint?

Little confused here.

[jeff1]

Just normal wear and tear useage, or.....a cold solder comes out of the factory that way and evenually heats up and lets go on the board.

jeff.

[Boman]

Did a little snooping and got as little better understanding of"cold solder joint".

My joint is not real pretty, but it is working. Now I am a little concerned about it being a good joint.

[jeff1]

As long as it works, that is all you can do.

jeff.

[Boman]

Yeah, need to get (or find mine) an iron more suitable for electronic boards. My pistol grip gun is too big to suit me. Want one with a keen point on it.