Need Refig advice ASAP

[d.mclean]

I have a Maytag refrigerator model number MBF2256KEW that the freezer section is not getting cold. Two days ago I noticed that ice cream was soft. I reset the temp control for the freezer and top section and waited. The top got colder but the freezer is not making even 32 degrees. Ice is melting in it. I already looked at the manual but no help for this problem. I had to replace the ice maker two years ago. This thing was new in 2008. Should I get it checked or just cut my losses and buy a new one?

Further info, the top section is 41 deg, the freezer section is 35 deg. Freezer set point used to be 4 now I have it at 6. Bottom coils have some dust but not excessive or blocked.

[jeff1]

Hi,

Any frost on the freezer back wall? Fan inside the freezer working? Any clicking/buzzing noises?
LINK> http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator-not-cold-enough.php


the top section is 41 deg, the freezer section is 35 deg. Freezer set point used to be 4 now I have it at 6. Bottom coils have some dust but not excessive or blocked

Condenser coil not plugged up with dust, might be a good idea to inspect the evaporator/coiling coils behind the false back wall in the freezer....check the frost pattern....all evenly frosted, 1/2 frosted and 1/2 bare, ball of ice, etc.

jeff.

[d.mclean]

No clicking or buzzing, but I do see frost on the back wall. It seems to be around a 1x4 inch raised plastic vent with frost inside it. Refrigerator is running continuously. UPDATE: I took the plastic cover off the vent and see it houses a temp sensor. This had frost on it. The lower vent holes in the false wall did not have any frost on them or the coils behind them which I could see with a bright light. Everything is off now, so I will wait 30 minutes and put the freezer door back on and start it up again. I read the link you provided and it seems to lean toward the frost free problem. I have an icemaker so getting the false wall out is a bit of work. UPDATE2: false wall removed and I found some frost build up on the coils behind the temp sensor. Fan motor turns by hand. UPDATE3: I left everything disassembled and powered it up. The fan runs, and the evaporator coil started to cool within a minute or so.

[jeff1]

false wall removed and I found some frost build up on the coils behind the temp sensor.

If just a splotch of frost in an area but no frost on other coils....that would indicate a system issue ( leak, restriction, inefficient compressor or any combination of these ).
If all the coils are plugged up with frost....that indicated a frost free failure.
Totally covered coils with white snow (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/frostbuild%20up.JPG) is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/innificientsystem.jpg), example picture two (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/364a.jpg), example picture three (http://www.applianceaid.com/images/Freezer2.jpg).

jeff.

[d.mclean]

Thanks for the reply Jeff, mine looked like picture one. Just a little frost. I have put it back together and I am letting it run now. If it won't cool, then I am going to buy another unit. (not from Home Depot) Thanks for the help. Don

[jeff1]

mine looked like picture one

141

System issue :(

jeff.

[d.mclean]

Thanks Jeff, as of today, after running for 14 hrs the food section is 53 degrees. I will buy a new refrigerator today. For anyone else who reads this post, I had to replace the icemaker when the unit was only 3 yrs old. It never worked completely right, sometimes spilling water and sometimes failing to eject the cubes. The cost for that was $103. I won't buy another Maytag.

[jeff1]

Thankx for the update.

jeff.