NITROITCH
03-14-2013, 02:13 PM
Replaced blown thermal cut off and blown thermal fuse. Checked continuity on operating thermostat and hi limit thermostat which were good. Checked ohm reading on element it was approx 10 ohms.
Dryer timer was ON with door opened when line power was turn ON via breaker, HOWEVER, element started to glow, obviously this was with no drum turning and no airflow due to door open. Next I closed the door allowing the air to flow.
With drum turning I checked amp draw with clamp on amp probe at one of the two element red leads and it was approx 27amps.
I DID NOT check continuity from element to frame for short circuit since the ohms read correct previously.
And if I remember correctly, when I checked voltage at element's two leads I got a reading of 124 volts, which I thought it should be 240ish....However, I don't remember at what point I checked this. Incoming power to dryer was 248 volts.
I did not have a schematic of this exact dryer until returning home. My thoughts are that the motor switch is supplying power on L2 ALL the time, and as long as the timer is ON thereby completeing the L1 circuit, the element stays ON. The dryer is located out of town, so I want to have solution and parts on hand when returning. Suspect: motor switch. Your thoughts and experience is appreciated.
Dryer timer was ON with door opened when line power was turn ON via breaker, HOWEVER, element started to glow, obviously this was with no drum turning and no airflow due to door open. Next I closed the door allowing the air to flow.
With drum turning I checked amp draw with clamp on amp probe at one of the two element red leads and it was approx 27amps.
I DID NOT check continuity from element to frame for short circuit since the ohms read correct previously.
And if I remember correctly, when I checked voltage at element's two leads I got a reading of 124 volts, which I thought it should be 240ish....However, I don't remember at what point I checked this. Incoming power to dryer was 248 volts.
I did not have a schematic of this exact dryer until returning home. My thoughts are that the motor switch is supplying power on L2 ALL the time, and as long as the timer is ON thereby completeing the L1 circuit, the element stays ON. The dryer is located out of town, so I want to have solution and parts on hand when returning. Suspect: motor switch. Your thoughts and experience is appreciated.