axnst1
03-14-2013, 03:20 PM
My gas dryer (Whirlpool LGQ8000JQ5) has stopped working! The motor won't turn and the heating element produces no heat to ignite the gas! Other than the timer ticking, the dryer makes no sound! I don't hear the motor turning or the gas kicking on! So I ripped the dryer apart and here's what I found:
- door switch works
- start button works and when turned on I get 120V going across it!
- I get no conductivity accross any connectors on the back of the Wrinkle Shield nobe (though I don't think this would matter)
- I get conductivity across all of the thermocouples
- timer ticks and I get 120 Volts between tan wire (back of timer) and a - bunch of different other wires (back of timer) (blue for example)
- thermo fuse replaced (I was hoping it was this so I replaced it first), works
- belt not broken
if I unplug the connector from the drive motor switch I get 120V across two wires (can't remember which two but I will check again)
However, I get no voltage going from (I think) the drive motor switch to the motor! On the picture below I get no voltage across the two wires in the back of the motor switch (marked with red arrows):
209
So questions:
- Does this sound like my drive motor switch is bad?
- Should the ignitor still start to heat up?
- Could it still be my timer?
- If there is something wrong with the high limit switch or the ignitor or any of the gas valves, shouldn't my motor still start spinning? Meaning is it possible that my motor isn't starting because one of the above itmes have gone bad? I would think it'd be the other way around, no? Meaning if the motor doesn't start = no heating initiated! So basically which relies on which to start first?
Thanks!
Any help would be great!
- door switch works
- start button works and when turned on I get 120V going across it!
- I get no conductivity accross any connectors on the back of the Wrinkle Shield nobe (though I don't think this would matter)
- I get conductivity across all of the thermocouples
- timer ticks and I get 120 Volts between tan wire (back of timer) and a - bunch of different other wires (back of timer) (blue for example)
- thermo fuse replaced (I was hoping it was this so I replaced it first), works
- belt not broken
if I unplug the connector from the drive motor switch I get 120V across two wires (can't remember which two but I will check again)
However, I get no voltage going from (I think) the drive motor switch to the motor! On the picture below I get no voltage across the two wires in the back of the motor switch (marked with red arrows):
209
So questions:
- Does this sound like my drive motor switch is bad?
- Should the ignitor still start to heat up?
- Could it still be my timer?
- If there is something wrong with the high limit switch or the ignitor or any of the gas valves, shouldn't my motor still start spinning? Meaning is it possible that my motor isn't starting because one of the above itmes have gone bad? I would think it'd be the other way around, no? Meaning if the motor doesn't start = no heating initiated! So basically which relies on which to start first?
Thanks!
Any help would be great!