Gas dryer clicks but won't spin

[Reason]

Kenmore
Model:
110.70802990

Looks like it was manufactured around June of 2000, (S/N xK25xxxxx)

Summary: when I press the start button, it clicks but won't spin. If I hold it I can hear a hum. I believe a faulty thermostat and possibly my ignorance may have broken something else but don't know where to look.

Details:
Went out last week and I determined it was likely the thermal fuse. Replaced fuse, and as recommended, the thermostat. The thermostat I replaced was right next to the fuse; there appears to be another one on the burner housing that I did not replace.

I did manage to zap myself when I was installing the thermostat; in addition, the replacement thermostat was not labeled at all, so I was guessing as to whether or not the wires were in the right spots. However, ran one load with no issues this past weekend, so I figured it was OK.

Today it wouldn't start.

Reset the breaker, came back into the garage, burner was ignited and burning, but drum was not spinning. This is without intervention: restore circuit, gas lights up. Seemed problematic.

I opened the door and it turned off (and turned the gas off). After poking around some more, I found that the new thermostat appeared to be shorting on the blower housing. I disconnected the screw and held the wires away from the housing, and it seemed to operate OK, but when I let the metal of the thermo touch the metal housing, it would spark; if I screwed it back on and plugged the dryer back in, I could hear a hum before I did anything else, and the start button wouldn't do anything.

This, combined with the "spontaneous" ignition, makes me think that short was causing the dryer to think it was already on.

I had kept the old thermostat for part number reference, so I reconnected it. This is when the title symptoms started. Door switch appears fine; start button will cause a loud click (sounds like a solenoid) but no spin.

I reconnected the new thermostat, this time swapping the red wires. Nothing until I "spark tested" it by lightly bouncing it on the vent outlet (that's the ignorance part). Got a much more exciting response this time and blew the breaker again.

Reconnected the old thermostat a second time, and I'm that's where I am.

ideas/suggestions/insults? Would prefer the former two over the last one.

Additional information:
Here's the replacement thermostat I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-Part-Number-3387134-Thermostat/dp/B001CCK5HS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367293051&sr=8-3&keywords=kenmore+thermostat

And the replacement fuse:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-Kenmore-dryer-thermofuse-3392519/dp/B000NCTOUM/ref=pd_bxgy_la_text_y

[jeff1]

Hi,


Went out last week and I determined it was likely the thermal fuse

What went out? Thermal fuse on a gas dryer is in series with the heat and won't stop the dryer from running.


when I press the start button, it clicks but won't spin

The start switch appears to have a relay inside, the click would be normal.


If I hold it I can hear a hum

Where is the hummmmmm coming from?


I did manage to zap myself when I was installing the thermostat

You tried the repair with the power on?.....tisk tisk ;)


Reset the breaker, came back into the garage, burner was ignited and burning, but drum was not spinning.

The heat is coming on without the dryer running.....that often points to the motor heat switch being stuck in the run mode, this could also account for the hummmmming and not running.


Here's the replacement thermostat I bought

We keep hearing bad issues with parts from Amazon!

jeff.

[Reason]

Thanks Jeff,

Hi,
What went out? Thermal fuse on a gas dryer is in series with the heat and won't stop the dryer from running.
The reverse of its current condition: would spin but no heat.


Where is the hummmmmm coming from?
Good question, I'll see if I can find it.


You tried the repair with the power on?.....tisk tisk ;)
Heh, yeah, learned that lesson. However I did not expect the thermostat to zap me.


The heat is coming on without the dryer running.....that often points to the motor heat switch being stuck in the run mode, this could also account for the hummmmming and not running.
Could the (possibly) faulty part and/or my, ahem, lesson-learning have caused that?

I'm at work and can't google around too much - can I replace the motor heat switch, or do I need to replace the entire motor?


We keep hearing bad issues with parts from Amazon!
Yeah, when the OEM parts are $15-$20 each, it's really tempting to pick up both parts for less than $10 with shipping. The seller has refunded my entire purchase, so good on them, but the fact that the burner was on without the drum spinning... not worth the savings.

[jeff1]

Could the (possibly) faulty part and/or my, ahem, lesson-learning have caused that?

That is possible yes.


can I replace the motor heat switch, or do I need to replace the entire motor?

Entire motor...

282 Motor, dryer drum drive with pulley for belt Manufacturer Number 279827 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2584)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=wuP7o10SOG8

jeff.

[Reason]

FFS.

You think there's any chance of unsticking it?

I guess a better question to ask would be, what would you try before spending $100 plus shipping? I don't want to throw parts at it.

Edit:
what about this scenario:
What if the burner had turned itself on due to the short, and blown another fuse or something because there was no exhaust? It's possible that I wouldn't have heard it running, and it was a couple of days before we ran it after the first successful load.

[jeff1]

You think there's any chance of unsticking it?

Not normally...and if it does start to function again, more often than not the problem re-occurs.


I guess a better question to ask would be, what would you try before spending $100 plus shipping?

Confirm it is the motor that is hummmming. Can ohm the motor heat switch and/or remove one of the heat wires from the motor to confirm the heat will now not function when the dryer is not running.


What if the burner had turned itself on due to the short, and blown another fuse or something because there was no exhaust?

If the motor heat switch is welded closed, it is shorted. Blown fuse prevents the heat from working. 13 year old dryer, might be best to put the money into a new one.

jeff.

[Reason]

That's what I was thinking. I'll try to confirm that's the issue or not. Thanks for all your help, Jeff. I'm going out of town so I'll be busy for a while and won't post, most likely.

[jeff1]

I'll try to confirm that's the issue or not

Great :)

jeff.