Stupid is as stupid does?

[Boman]

So I got a Whirlpool dryer from a lady that had been in a barn for..I don't know how long. It is a 2002 model. Someone had removed the terminal block and had nutted and taped the chord wires ( 3 prong)to the power wires. I took it apart and cleaned it out. I installed a block and spliced the wires with inline splices. I then installed a good 3 wire chord.

It heated pretty good. Then it stopped heating!
I checked all the stats and thermal fuses, high limit, etc.


I decided it must be the motor switch so I got the bright idea of changing motors as AI had the same motor on another dryer that needed a timer for one thing. Then I thought change hte cabinets.. Anyway, in the middle of all this in which I messed up two blower wheels trying to remove the motors, I noticed the neutral/ground I had spliced came apart! so much for that splice. I assume this why I could not get 220 at the heating element?

Lot of work for a loose connection.

By the way, the cabinet I put the wiring harness in does not have a drum light, Is it okay just to tape the ries for the drum light off, or is that getting a little hack like?

Heck I may just change the bulkhead or put everything back like it was, if the loose splice was the problem.

I actually do not like the idea of a splice of that nature.

[jeff1]

Howdy,


Is it okay just to tape the ries for the drum light off

Sure, that would be fine.


I noticed the neutral/ground I had spliced came apart! so much for that splice. I assume this why I could not get 220 at the heating element?


Neutral would be for the motor, timer motor, light....but shouldn't do anything for the heat, the heat is 220-240 volts AC ( black and red ).


I actually do not like the idea of a splice of that nature

Solder them first.

jeff.

[Boman]

Yeah, it just came to me, the motor would not have been running if the neutral was open.
As I got thinking about this, I remember ( I think) one wire at the element was showing 120 volts when tested from frame to terminal. The one coming from the motor did not show voltage. I'm thinking this was what made me decide in my feeble mind the motor switch was bad.

I think what I am going to do to avoid the splicing is remove the wires needed from the wiring harness of another old dryer.
Then again soldering would be quicker. May try soldering and shrink wrap for insulation.

This thing had sat in abarn and was very dirty until I blew and vacuumed it out.
At first it seemed to hover close to 140 degrees until I gave it a pretty good cleaning including the motor. It then would cycle within the range indicated on the working stat (155-25). Then it quit heating. I think maybe I blew something into the motor, or it was something that had accumulated in it while sitting in the barn. I have noticed several spiders in this thing.

[jeff1]

I have noticed several spiders in this thing.

Eeeeck!! :eek:


I remember ( I think) one wire at the element was showing 120 volts when tested from frame to terminal. The one coming from the motor did not show voltage.

That sounds right....just join the two wires for the heat switch ( often #1&2 ) at the motor and see what happens.

jeff.

[Boman]

Fixed all 3 splices with solder and shrink wrap. I put the original harness back in the dryer it came from. Got heat now. now I just have to replace a couple of blower wheels that did not want to co-operate when I tried to remove them.

[jeff1]

Got heat now

Great :)


now I just have to replace a couple of blower wheels that did not want to co-operate when I tried to remove them.

Oh ya, they get frozen onto the shaft!!

jeff.