Gas Range tips - Appliance tips of the week
My surface burners keep "clicking" even after the burner is light:
Spark Module Diagnostics- Sealed Burner Non-Reignition:
Appliance tip of the week...
My surface burners keep "clicking" even after the burner is light:
There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes and NOT a tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse. Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are the ignition switches under the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a bad spark module, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help. Repair and checking tips for surface burners.
TIP:
Hello,
I have a Kenmore Elite Gas range/oven. This morning I noticed the range top ignition was clicking all by itself every 15-30 seconds. I checked all of the knobs to assure they were off and they were. All burners including the oven light as normal but the ignition will not stop clicking.
It is now clicking every 2-3 seconds!
Does anyone have any suggestions?
P.S. I turned off the gas and electric until resolved.
While previously cleaning the range control knobs, one of those switches got wet and was completing the circuit to the spark module causing it to fire off sparks. A little help from my wife's hair/blow dryer and were all fixed!
Spark Module Diagnostics- Sealed Burner Non-Reignition....
* This article is compliments of Maytag - this has enough tips and information that could pertain to many gas cooking products!
Diagnosing a non-sparking can be frustrating. With some simple understandable of how the module and related parts work, diagnosis can be made easier.
The module receives 120VAC from the ignition switches are wired in parallel, meaning that each switch can activate the module. Power (L1) comes into the first switch then jumps tot eh second, onto the third, and so on. L1 passes through the switch then outward to the module. The outgoing L1 is weird the same way as the incoming, with the exception that it goes to the spark module. With this understanding, ignition switch is turned on individually. Should one switch appear to be nonfunctional, check the switch. Should a couple of switched appear not to be working, check for loose wires between the switches. This only applies to non- reignition type systems.
The module, once it receives the L1 voltage from the switches, energizes the coils to produce approximately 12000-14000 VDC to the burners. The coil sends the voltage out via the igniter wires to the igniter where the spark jumps to the burner base. Voltage then passes through the burner to the grounding strap, through the chassis to the opposite grounding strap, to the burner base. The voltage jumps from the burner base to the igniter (that's right from the base to the igniter), passing back through the igniter wire, to the coil, thus completing the coil operation circuit. The coils in the module are balanced based on impedance or resistance. The coils are wired so that the left front and right rear burners are on one coil; the left rear and right front are on the other. Knowing about the balance and the path of the electrical flow, finding a sparking problem can be made less complicated. This only applies to the sealed burner, non-reignition system.
Now for the service diagnostics. The customer complains that the left burner is not igniting, but the other burners are sparking. The ignition switches can be ruled out since the module is receiving the L1 voltage and a spark is produced. *Since the left front burner is linked to the right rear burner, check the spark on that burner. If the spark at the right rear is a crisp blue spark, that indicates that the 12000-14000 VDC is returning to the burner. Electricity will take the path of least resistance and would rather go to the chassis than jump the gap at the burner. With this in mind, the next thing to check is for a possible grounded igniter wire or broken igniter insulator for the left front burner. let's now take a look at the opposite affect. The right rear burner is a light blue almost white spark. This would indicate not all the D.C. voltage is returning to the burner. Possible causes could be:
The gap between the igniter and the burner base is too large. *Should be approximately the thickness of two dimes.
Soiled igniter or burner base.
The above can be tested by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner.
Loose wiring connections at the igniter, the grounding strap, or spark module.
Broken or pinched igniter wire between the burner and module.
Both of the above are physical inspections under the main top.
The module may have a week coil, which is not providing sufficient voltage to ignite the gas.
Hopefully this will help you diagnose erratic or intermittent sparking on your future service calls of this nature.
* This article is compliments of Maytag - this has enough tips and information that could pertain to many gas cooking products!
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jeff.
