Frigidaire fridge issues

[FILMAN]

I have model#frs6lf7gs4 and the fridge was not cooling. I took it apart & found 2 electrical components that were chard or burnt. I replace the starter ptc & the capacitor run 2. The fridge worked great for 2 days & now has done the same thing. Why would it work fine for 2 days? If there was a problem why not burn up immediately? Any sugestions on what i can check for would be greatly appreciated.


Filman

[jeff1]

Hi,

I took it apart & found 2 electrical components that were chard or burnt. I replace the starter ptc & the capacitor run

Are the pins on the compressor burnt/damaged? Did anybody check the compressors current ( amp ) draw? It -may- be the compressor damaging the start relay/overload.

The fridge worked great for 2 days & now has done the same thing

The compressor stopped running after 2 days?

jeff.

[FILMAN]

PIN LOOKED FINE. DIDNOT CHECK THE COMPRESSOR CURRENT. WHAT SHOULD I BE CHECKING? WHY WOULD IT RUN FOR TWO DAYS & THEN OVERLOAD?

AFTER FURTHER INSPECTION THERE IS A GROMMET THAT IS SILICONED FOR THE WATER LINES TO ROUTE INTO THE FRIDGE. THIS GROMMET IS DIRECTLY OVER THE TWO ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. IF ANY MOISTURE IS COMING OUT OF THE FRIDGE IT WILL DRIP ONTO THESE COMPONENTS. IS THERE A RECALL FOR THIS? A POOR POOR DESIGN / LAYOUT OF THESE FEATURES. A REAL FIRE HAZARD!!!



"The compressor stopped running after 2 days?"

WHY WOULD IT RUN FOR TWO DAYS?

[jeff1]

PIN LOOKED FINE

Good.

DIDNOT CHECK THE COMPRESSOR CURRENT

That would be a good idea, if the compressor was drawing a little too much current it will run until it gets too hot and then fail.

WHAT SHOULD I BE CHECKING?

For now, power to the compressor ( 110-120 volts AC ) and if you have power there but the compressor has quit the compressor itself is likely damaging the relay/overload.

THIS GROMMET IS DIRECTLY OVER THE TWO ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. IF ANY MOISTURE IS COMING OUT OF THE FRIDGE IT WILL DRIP ONTO THESE COMPONENTS. IS THERE A RECALL FOR THIS?

Never seen nor heard of one causing issues....the silicone would seal the hole anyways.

jeff.

[FILMAN]

" if the compressor was drawing a little too much current it will run until it gets too hot and then fail."

THEN THIS SHOULD BLOW A FUSE SOMEWHERE NOT MELT & BURN UP. QUITE A FIRE HAZARD!
THE FRIDGE IS QUITE CLEAN IN THE BACK. NOT MUCH DUST AS IT GETS CLEANED EVERY YEAR. FAN WORKING PERFECTLY AS WELL.
IS IT COMMON TO RUN 2 DAYS BEFORE OVERLOADING?


"For now, power to the compressor ( 110-120 volts AC ) and if you have power there but the compressor has quit the compressor itself is likely damaging the relay/overload."


CAN I CHECK THE CURRENT WITHOUT NEW STARTER & CAPACITOR COMPONENTS?

".the silicone would seal the hole anyways"

THE WATERLINE CAN CONDENSATE & COME THROUGH THE GROMMET?

THANKS,
PHIL
(CAPS ARE EASIER TO READ...NOT YELLING)

[jeff1]

THEN THIS SHOULD BLOW A FUSE SOMEWHERE NOT MELT & BURN UP

Some might blow a fuse, most do not.

IS IT COMMON TO RUN 2 DAYS BEFORE OVERLOADING?

Yes!
One thing I haven't mentioned is the mystery seizing up...runs fine for a day or two and then all of a sudden locks up and doesn't work.....some work again when cooled an fail again after a few days = bad compressor.

CAN I CHECK THE CURRENT WITHOUT NEW STARTER & CAPACITOR COMPONENTS?

Usually, but for now just seeing if the compressor is getting power or not is the place to start.

CAPS ARE EASIER TO READ...NOT YELLING

That's ok....it is actually harder to read for me.

jeff.